July 7th. The first
part of today´s walk was beside the Rio Uciera.
We took this alternative route to avoid walking on the senda - a pilgrim autopiste that runs
along beside the highway. These paths
are long and straight and made mostly from concrete, which is very hard on the
body. Our route through the fields was
much preferable - although we noticed that most people were walking beside the
highway. We heard very strange noises
coming from the river and at first thought it was an unusual bird but later
decided that it must have been the frogs.
They were calling out to, and answering, each other and at times they
almost sounded like humans talking.
Our hotel today is (another) former monastery - but this one is also a three-star hotel. When we arrived we heard Gregorian chanting in the lobby and at first thought the monks were really there to greet us. Of course, it was just a recording but it provided a very nice ambiance. The hotel is huge and has lovely grounds with beautiful trees and a large golf-green standard lawn. There was a very classy Spanish wedding taking place at the hotel while we were there, with all the guests in long gowns and tuxedos. In the evening they had a riotous party in one of the courtyards just below our window with lots of huddling in corners and shouting and singing. It was interesting to watch these different customs.
July 8th. Today we walked from Carrion de los Condes to Caladrilla de la Cueza. There was nothing much to say about this part of the trail except that at times we were walking between 8ft high purple thistle “hedges”. Very unnerving as the path was rather narrow in places.
This morning, July 9th, was the running of the bulls in Pamplona. We watched the entire event on TV during breakfast. It was such a spectacle, with hundreds of people gathered in the streets or hanging from balconies all along the route. The runners were lined up in their white suits and red kerchiefs. There was a lot of pacing and stretching and praying, and praying, and praying ... and suddenly the bulls were loose. Most of them ran straight through the streets, bumping into the runners and knocking some of them over. However, there was one large black bull that was obviously very angry. He was frothing at the mouth and kept turning in circles and attempting to charge the crowd. Luckily the bull-handlers were there to prevent any serious damage. Once in the ring our bull-hero for the day was kept performing by the picadors with their lovely yellow and pink capes. We didn´t stay to watch the rest! The entire bull-running event took fewer than 4 minutes but was quite amazing to watch!
We are now in Sahagun - a grubby little town with nothing much to recommend it. We move on to El Burgo Ranero tomorrow!
Our hotel today is (another) former monastery - but this one is also a three-star hotel. When we arrived we heard Gregorian chanting in the lobby and at first thought the monks were really there to greet us. Of course, it was just a recording but it provided a very nice ambiance. The hotel is huge and has lovely grounds with beautiful trees and a large golf-green standard lawn. There was a very classy Spanish wedding taking place at the hotel while we were there, with all the guests in long gowns and tuxedos. In the evening they had a riotous party in one of the courtyards just below our window with lots of huddling in corners and shouting and singing. It was interesting to watch these different customs.
July 8th. Today we walked from Carrion de los Condes to Caladrilla de la Cueza. There was nothing much to say about this part of the trail except that at times we were walking between 8ft high purple thistle “hedges”. Very unnerving as the path was rather narrow in places.
This morning, July 9th, was the running of the bulls in Pamplona. We watched the entire event on TV during breakfast. It was such a spectacle, with hundreds of people gathered in the streets or hanging from balconies all along the route. The runners were lined up in their white suits and red kerchiefs. There was a lot of pacing and stretching and praying, and praying, and praying ... and suddenly the bulls were loose. Most of them ran straight through the streets, bumping into the runners and knocking some of them over. However, there was one large black bull that was obviously very angry. He was frothing at the mouth and kept turning in circles and attempting to charge the crowd. Luckily the bull-handlers were there to prevent any serious damage. Once in the ring our bull-hero for the day was kept performing by the picadors with their lovely yellow and pink capes. We didn´t stay to watch the rest! The entire bull-running event took fewer than 4 minutes but was quite amazing to watch!
We are now in Sahagun - a grubby little town with nothing much to recommend it. We move on to El Burgo Ranero tomorrow!
Hello Wendy. So you only have to walk 19 km to Mansilla de las Mulas and then 17 km to Leon!Well done!
ReplyDeleteIn three days you will start the 4th stage and in 14 days you will be in Santiago de Compostela. Unbelievable.
I wonder if there will be more people on Stages 4 and 5. Did you meet any new people? Have a great Camino experience. Vera
Hi Vera: We decided to do a fast forward to Leon as the trail ran along beside a major highway and through a lot of grubby villages and industrial areas. Leon is a beautiful city and we are glad to be here. We ll rest here for two more days and then we ll be ready for the mountains again including the highest point on the entire Camino. I ll update my blog either tomorrow or Thursday.
DeleteW
Hello Wendy, thank you for a reply. Leon looks very old and interesting. There is a museum of contemporary art, archaeological museum and other interesting places. Douglas Jackson from Telegraph calls Leon, quote "true Spain caught between the mountains and the plain. It’s also packed with history. León is actually a derivation of “legion”, specifically the Seventh Legion, which built a fortress on the site to guard the gold mines at nearby Astorga. The street plan of the old town is still based on the lines of the old barrack blocks and you can tour the Roman walls. León’s crowning glory is the cathedral, one of the stops on the pilgrim route to Santiago de Compostela. Head for Parque de La Candamia, the perfect place to laze by the river. Where would you meet friends for a drink? In León you are more likely to meet at the cathedral and head into Barrio Húmedo, and in particular Plaza San Martin, where you will find Taberna Oriente Medio on Calle de Juan de Arfe (just off Plaza San Martín). There are other tapas areas, near to Corte Ingles (which is a little more expensive) and near to Musac (the contemporary art museum). My favourite tapas is at Bar Jamon Jamon, on Calle Varillas. The buzz on a Saturday night could power the whole city. Where are your favourite places for lunch? La Travviata on Plaza Mayor, and El Capricho on Plaza de San Marcel which is opposite the Casa Botines (a bank designed by Gaudí). And for dinner? The restaurant in the Parador San Marcos (see above). Wonderful food in a wonderful atmosphere. Or if you fancy somewhere cheaper, try La Competencia (a pizza place, but it’s good). Nuevo Racimo de Oro, 8 Plaza San Martin, specialises in brilliant fish dishes and also has a busy tapas bar. Where would you send a first-time visitor? On a walk through the old town, stopping for a corto (a small beer) and some tapas. Or down to the river and along to San Marcos. What would you tell them to avoid? The Plaza del Toro, but that’s a personal preference." End of quote.
DeleteLet me know what you found interesting in Leon. Have a great Camino Frances experience! Vera